Here we are, journeying north with Willie Nelson singing in my head, “On the road again”. Luckily the radio has other music to offer for our long trip. This will be a loop route, leading us north to Sudbury and then onto Espanola and down to Manitoulin. After a few days exploring the island we will then head back via the Chi-Cheemaun Ferry.
Manitoulin is the world’s largest freshwater island, which is home to Lake Manitou, the world’s largest freshwater lake on an island, and also Treasure Island, which is the largest island in a lake on an island in a lake in the world. Whew. If that is not enough reason to visit Manitoulin, then the pristine land, unique ecosystems and vast undeveloped wilderness certainly is. Unlike our local Muskokas, which have become commercialized and heavily populated with tourists, Manitoulin still feels wild. This is a place where you drive with the windows down, the cool lake winds blowing, and a coyote running in front of your car with a fat rabbit in his mouth. Not much farther down the road, strutting along a fence, is a pair of large brown Sandhill cranes with vibrant red heads. We frequently spotted small deer, browsing in the nearby fields, unconcerned with our approach beyond a twitch of their white tails. We passed through thick green forests, rugged highlands of the Niagara Escarpment, and low lying areas of thin soil and lichen covered rocks. Fields of small pink and yellow flowers waved in the breeze while puffy white clouds scudded across the bright blue sky.
We arrived at our rustic Air B&B in the late afternoon. Rustic in that there was no electricity and the compostable toilet was across the field. Just the way I like it. Once we unpacked we decided to head to the local Bridal Veil Falls for a short evening hike. One of the top destinations in Manitoulin for tourists, the falls are in the town of Kagawong, and are just a short distance from the highway. Officially the trail closes by 5:30 pm, but can still be accessed after this time, which was lucky for us as the crowds were mostly gone by the time we arrived. There is a metal observation deck with a great view of the falls, and once down the staircase you are at the thirty-six foot falls, cascading over the limestone escarpment. Children, and some adults, were swimming in the cool waters, while in November these waters are filled with migrating salmon. Everyone we passed only made a quick stop for pictures before returning to their cars, but we continued on to explore the multiple short trails that follow the narrow river as it tumbles and gurgles over rocks. Bright green ferns and soft mosses cover fallen logs, and a broad wall of limestone rears up on the one side, soft water trickling down to form shallow rivulets that cross the dirt path. We headed back to the car as the sun began its slow descent, bathing us in cool shadows. Tomorrow the real hiking begins, with a rugged trip up the Cup and Saucer and another cliff to terrify me!