If you drive through the town of Bracebridge, along a narrow road beside the North branch of the Muskoka River, you will come to the end of the road at a free parking lot. Just a short walk along a dirt path brings you to an old water control dam. Water rushes over the dam, forming small pools between smooth rocks of granite. Here a metal walkway allows visitors to traverse the dam, and once in the forest on the other side, a few hiking trails lead off in many directions. This is the beginning of the Wilson’s Falls hiking trail, a 3.7 km loop trail of hills, waterfalls, a river and mixed forests.
Pine needles cover the trail in a thick blanket, muffling the sounds of footfalls. The roar and rumble of the falls in the distance is the loudest sound. Rocks of the Canadian Shield jut into the water, black with moisture. Huddled at the base of pines are groups of mushrooms and fungi; reds, pinks and every shade of brown. The trail repeatedly branches off in multiple directions, but following the edge of the river seems to be the most popular route. Within a short distance the trees thin, and the rocks above the first cascade are visible. People clamber over the grey and brown exposed rocks, with some trailing fingers in the cold waters. Further out above the main falls, a group of women enjoy a picnic on a flat rock in the middle of the water, with a stunning view over the ten-metre-high falls. The main falls cascades down multiple sections, creating lovely white water, which is even more impressive in the spring when the water is running high.
This section of trail is very busy, but as the trail continues down to the river below the falls, the crowds are left behind. Here the river runs still and deep, a rich reddish-brown color reminiscent of a black tea. This color is caused by tannins, organic compounds released by decaying vegetation. As this vegetation drains through marshes and bogs, the bogs leach acids from pine needles and leaves, much like a giant tea bag. Other rivers and lakes turn amber or even orange, as oxidized iron and manganese mix with the organic material for a deeper hue. Out on the water a kayaker paddles slowly, leaving small ripples in the water. A small movement on the banks of the river reveal a great blue heron, fishing for small minnows in the shallows. Here the banks are deep in shadows, while out on the water the sunlight sparkles and dances. Small wrens and sparrows sing in the pines overhead as they bounce from branch to branch.
The trail comes to a small steam, bouncing and tumbling down a steep hill and over rocks of gneiss bedrock, typical of the Canadian Shield. At the base of the cataract are clear pools of water, which reveal silt of red garnet (yes, really garnet!) and black magnetite. Tiny water striders zip across the surface on spindly legs, using surface tension to keep afloat. The little stream empties out onto a miniature sandy beach, where numerous canine footprints suggest a favorite area for swimming. Back at the base of the cascade a small bridge leads further along, while another trail follows the stream up to the top of that steep hill. A young labrador retriever races ahead of his owner, eager for a friendly pat on the head. His wet fur flings off in all directions as he gives a vigorous shake. This section of trail will traverse another steep incline before ending at a local road.
Back at the cascade the trail running beside it travels up a very steep section of hill, slick with those red pine needles. At the summit, the forest becomes a mix of evergreens and deciduous trees, with leaves still green, but with the occasional red or orange leaf floating gently to the forest floor. Up here a breeze is a welcome relief after the hot climb, ruffling the leaves in the canopy. Only the occasional mosquito buzzes close enough to be annoying. A trail map provides an overview of the multiple trails leading off to the distance, including the epic Trans Canada Trail. Other trails lead off to more parking lots.
It is the sound of rushing water that signifies that the trail has returned to the old dam. A small wooden bench, green with moss, looks out over the still pond, where the surface is broken by fish grabbing insects. The crowds are back, with people leaning on the metal railings to enjoy the view and take pictures. Children race across the metal gratings, dropping leaves and sticks into the current to watch them tumble over the dam. Back at the parking lot groups maneuver for a space, while other groups park farther down the road for the best panoramic view of the falls. Overall, a busy but very beautiful area to explore.